Tuesday, January 26, 2010

vacation time!

Last week as we sat around rather bored in the common area, we decided it would be prime time to take a trip and what better place to go to than the beach. Minutes later we had booked a trip to Goa. I will spare the details about skipping classes and spending money, but it was a fantastic trip. Our friend is originally from Hyderabad but grew up in Denmark and apart from being a great friend, she is also pretty helpful. She had been to Palolem before so we were able to just wing it because she had a basic idea of everything. After a quick flight on Kingfisher Red (Kingfisher is to India but Budweiser is to the US, but was a little disappointed to find out they only served water on board) and an hour and a half taxi ride into the Goan mountains, we arrived at what was sort of like Panama City but classier, full of Europeans, and only slightly Indian. We stayed in little handmade huts that were literally just a bed with mosquito net and a wall separating that and the sink, toilet, and shower. They front porches had chairs and a table and a hammock so that was good times. Overall, each of us paid around 3$ a night and we only really slept there so it was all good. It was also conveniently located less than a minute's walk from the beach which was beautiful. Palolem was small enough to walk to either end of the beach and there were cool islands and mountains that we kayaked to one day (I like to kayak as much as anyone else, but the whole part about being on the ocean was not to good. I'll stick to land from now on). From our huts there were restaurants and bars and shops and numerous hagglers who followed you around all day. During the day the restaurants set out beach chairs and you can just chill, order a few drinks, take a nap; at night they pull those in and put out tables so you can eat and drink on the beach which was pretty cool. All the food I ate there was fantastic. It was a nice break from curry. We had spring rolls, french fries, hamburgers (BEEF!), momos (Tibetan dumbplings-my new favorite food), nutella pancakes, fried bananas with nutella (called filters for whatever reason), pizza, beef lasagna....I could go on. Since it's a tourist destination they have standards to live up to so all the food was good and our group only had minor stomach issues. There was a market just on the other side of our huts and they had everything. We basically bought new wardrobes because we packed Indian clothes and upon arrival see Europeans in bikinis and thongs. It was nice to be able to show beyond my elbows and knees. By whole new wardrobe I mean a shirt and some pants and a dress, people re-wear clothes pretty much every day which is actually a nice way to go about things. Not only did we have the same outfit, we avoided showers. We had a shower, but it just wasn't worth it. No one cares and it's not like we reek after five days so it all worked out. Shopping is exhausting though. It's a lot of the same stuff people are selling and people try so hard to get you to buy things and then when you find something you like you have to haggle the price down. I got some DVD's for 2$ so that was my shopping win for the weekend.
This trip made me realize two things about India. First off, you can't take anything for granted in India. Power, clean water, toilet paper, toilets in general, personal safety from riots and even the police (or especially the police), personal identity (it sucks to be a American female here), hot water, internet, well-prepared food...all things we have to think about. Second realization is that Hyderabad sucks. We were under the impression upon applying here that Hyderabad is one of the top Indian cities (it is...but only as far as population goes) and that it is well-developed and full of fun things to do. As this was our first trip outside Hyderabad, we didn't know any better than to just appreciate it for what it is. There is also this political mess going on about Hyderabad splitting into a different state, Telangana. I don't understand the whole of it, but I get it a lot better after seeing something new. Hyderabad has minimally paved roads, there is always construction going on, there is chaos everywhere and the poverty is out of control. Goa had wonderfully paved roads, established city communities (plus really cool old buildings-thanks, Portugal), the poverty wasn't as apparent, ect. It's not Hyderabad's fault it's an arid desert, but we do need help that we aren't getting from the government, hence wanting our own state to push change forward. Needless to say, we will be doing a lot more traveling. We flew this time but trains are are cheaper option. You get what you pay for and a 10 hour train ride does cut down on actual beach time, but we're already looking forward to exploring new parts of the country, especially before it gets to be unmanageably hot. Rajasthan, Pondicherry, Kerala, and Delhi are all in the lineup, which will of course be followed up to a trip to the Himalayas after the semester is over.
Apart from Goa, things are great here. We've had a lot of bandhs and canceled classes due to a murder at Osmania University (far from us, don't worry) and we've discovered we have dish tv, so there are many movies watched during bandhs because there's always a risk of police interrogation or transportation problems or nothing even being opened if we leave campus, so we just chill here. My Hindi is improving-I can read signs now...meaning I can pronounce them because Hindi makes a lot of sense and is all phonetic, but don't have the biggest vocabulary. It's strange to not have rehearsal. I only have 4 hours of dance classes a week and then a dance theory class and I'm finished after 5 everyday which is strange. Some of the girls are having a hard time picking up Kuchipudi so we get in some practice a few times a week, but I do miss the intense schedule I had back at Agnes. I have officially been in India a month. I haven't gotten sick and I'm not homesick so all is well. The first two weeks went by really slow and a few times I thought 'I have to be here for four months?!' but this month has flown by. We know the city pretty well and are working on making friends. That sounds lame, but it's hard to make friends here. It's not safe or socially acceptable to just go make some male friends if you're a white female. I have a few men in one of my classes from Burma that are really nice but beyond that it's totally different than at home. We get mixed reactions from the Indian girls. Some are jealous of the attention we get, some are really friendly, and some just don't want to be around the attention we get. Also women don't go out often so it's hard to find things to do. Going out for chai is always a good idea since it's a very social thing, or just awkwardly making friends in class. I went out with a guy who is Indian but grew up in Dubai and that was an experience. We went to the movies and we were both dressed in Western clothes and wow we got some strange reactions. He was really nice about it, but suggested we bring a big group of people next time because he wasn't used to and didn't like getting looked at. He also said he thinks a lot of Americans leave here with a certain ego because of all the attention we get. I think it's the opposite and is very humbling. I do not like the constant stares and weird people who want to shake my hand and people handing me their babies. I am not a celebrity and sometimes it's nice to sit and chat with someone or play with kids but by no means would I rather have that than just blending in. Anyway, he drove me back to campus after that and I was showing him around the massive 2,300 acres or something and we were followed by campus police. They didn't give us a lot of attitude but were still very rude and made us go back to my dorm and walked me to the door to make sure I went through it. However, I got a call from him later and he said they stopped him and made him get out of his car and physically hit him, tried to take away his keys, and arrest him. They took him to a holding cell and questioned him about why he was with a white girl, why we went down that road, why he was on campus, ect. They let him go, but that's still awful. There have been a few cases of American girls being raped so it was nice they came to check on me but after that was just uncalled for. There are a lot of very strange dynamics here....
anyway, onto pictures:
Our hut complex. Notice the luscious greenery.













Here is our backyard in Hyderabad. Notice the brown and uncared for land.










and a cute one of the roomie, Abby, and I out in the open ocean.

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